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Troubleshooting Guide

1. weBoost Eqo booster not working or not improving reception as much as expected.

If you're using the new weBoost Eqo booster with no external antenna, place the weBoost booster unit "near a window" for best reception. Ideally, that is where it must be placed per its user manual instructions because you would probably have the best reception there, rather than other indoor spaces in your house. However, if reception does not improve as needed, placing Eqo booting unit near an "open window" of a home would be ideal for optimum indoor reception. Although this may not be practical all the time, the reason we suggest this is because some glass windows of newer homes have multiple layers of glass with insulated glazing. Insulated glaze forms a very compact multi-layer sandwich of air and glass, to reduce thermal heat transfer for energy efficiency. Such windows or windows may also have Low-E glass which is a type of window glass that has a thin and transparent coating that reflects long-wave infrared energy (or heat). Some low emissivity window glass surfaces also reflect significant amounts of short-wave solar infrared energy. Such glass window panes cause up to 33 dB attenuation (or signal loss) on both the 800 MHz and 1900 MHz frequency bands which is substantial. Rest assured, despite attenuation of up to 33 decibels, this weBoost Eqo cell phone booster would still improve reception in most cases with up to 70 dB Gain that it offers. For extreme cases only, where reception boost does not occur as needed, we recommend placing the weBoost Eqo amplifier unit "near an open window" for optimal results.

2. Using Different Antennas for Vehicle Boosters

Included in our 4G vehicle booster kit is a 4" magnet-mount antenna. This antenna by Wilson Electronics is the one we currently recommend because it is our strongest 4G vehicle antenna. Using other vehicle antennas may result in inadequate gain (signal boost) or power (transmission capability) for your 4G LTE data.

3. Additional Cable Required to Complete Installation of Indoor Signal Booster System

Sometimes extra cable may be required to complete an installation of your indoor signal booster system. We strongly recommend that you only use the cable included in the kit, if at all possible. Remember that your signal booster has been certified by the FCC (or in Canada, the IC) based on the specific lengths of cable that come with your kit. The only time we would recommend adding additional cable to your installation is if your outside signal is already strong. Here are our reasons for this recommendation:

• Adding more cable to an installation when you have a weak outside link could degrade your indoor cell coverage even further. This happens due to a signal "leakage" right along the length of the cable runs. Therefore, the longer your cable runs, the more signal it essentially, "leaks" away.

• If you add more cable to an installation when you have a weak outside signal, you risk degrading your indoor cell coverage even further. If you're starting with a weak outside signal, and more signal leaks during a long cable run to the booster unit, then you could end up with the boosted signal within the building providing even less coverage area than you had prior to installing your booster system.

If you feel this situation might apply to your own booster installation, it is our suggestion that you first do a temporary or as we more frequently call, a "soft" installation. This enables you to test your system easily and quickly without investing time and effort in performing the installation. This will allow you to make any required system adjustments prior to a permanent installation.

4. Orange Light, or Blinking Orange and Green Lights on an Indoor Booster

An orange light on an indoor booster system indicates an overload condition indicating a very strong incoming signal. This causes your booster to work at reduced gain, or to shut down completely.

Overload is generally caused by a cell tower (and not necessarily your own carrier's tower) that is too close to your location, forcing the signal to come in too hot. According to FCC regulations, when this occurs your booster must reduce power in order to protect the cellular network.

Correcting an Overload Condition

Begin by unplugging the booster. Then redirect outside (tower) antenna to point in a different direction. We typically recommend turning the antenna between 5 and 10 degrees at a time, and resetting the system by plugging the booster back in every time you adjust antenna.

Continue monitoring indicator lights on your booster. Redirect antenna until the booster operates as normal, with only green lights displaying. More advanced troubleshooting will be required if the orange light(s) continue to display following your efforts to redirect antenna.

If the lights are blinking orange and green, test your inside signal coverage without the signal booster. Perhaps conditions have changed such as a new cell tower installation in your neighborhood. Such change in conditions may provide adequate coverage for your needs without having to use a signal booster.

5. Red Light or Blinking Red and Green Lights on a Vehicle or Indoor Booster

The feedback loop condition known as, "oscillation" is indicated by a red light. Your booster will shut down when oscillation is detected. Oscillation is typically caused when the outside (tower) antenna and the inside (device) antennas are placed too close together. In order to correct this condition, you should start by unplugging the booster. Then relocate outside antenna and interior antenna further away from each other. The goal here is to prevent a feedback loop, by increasing the separation distance between both antennae.

Tech Tip: Vertically separating the two antennas will generally result in a shorter distance required than horizontal separation. Try placing the device antenna directly below the tower antenna's location. Plus, a combination of horizontal and vertical separation distance also works well to prevent oscillation.

Final Step: Plug the booster back in and run a test. Should the red light display again, increase the separation distance until the condition has been rectified. If lights are blinking red and green, you should test inside signal coverage without the signal booster. Perhaps conditions have changed, such as an installation of a new cell tower within close proximity. This would then provide better coverage for your needs without having to use a cell phone signal booster. If it has been more than sixty days since purchase, you can then sell it on eBay or Amazon and cash out some money:)

6. Determining Your Phone's Signal Strength Reading (Field Test Mode)

Knowing the actual signal strength reading of your phone is preferable to simply relying on the signal strength according to the "bars" graphic which is often inaccurate. Unfortunately, there are no standards with the bars representation. One phone's 3 bars might well represent a stronger signal than another phone's 4 or even 5 bars. But there's no way of knowing that. Therefore, the only accurate way of determining the signal strength received by your phone is to view the actual reading. These readings are expressed in the standard unit of measure known as decibels (dBm). dBm tell us when we're receiving a weaker or stronger signal.

With most Android phone models you can view the signal strength readings by navigating the menu tree on the device. Finding the appropriate menu-screen does vary across phone manufacturers, models, and different versions of android OS. However, a typical navigation sequence would be: Settings > About Phone > Status or Network > Network Type and Strength or Signal Strength.

Alternatively, the navigation sequence for some Android phones is: Settings > More Settings or More Options > About Phone > Mobile Networks > Signal Strength. You should be able to find the dBm reading by experimenting with the menus on your Android phone.

If, after following the above instructions, you're still unable to find your phone signal strength reading, then you should check the operations guide that came with your device. Alternatively, visit the Field Test Mode guide or the Signal Strength Reading guide at:
/blog/field-test-mode-an-overview-enabling-it-on-your-phone/

And finally, if you still require assistance, you may contact your phone manufacturer's customer support group. Note that in order to view a signal strength reading, iPhone models require the user to access the phone's Field Test Mode.

Field Test Mode Instructions for iOS

If you're using an iPhone 5, or even later model, you should go into your Settings, then Cellular, and turn OFF the LTE.

Dial *3001#12345#* from your phone's keypad, then press the, "Call" button. Your screen will change and display Test Mode after you have pressed, "Call", and a negative number will display on the upper left-hand side of your screen. This negative number is your signal reading in dBm. The same rules apply for both strong and weak signals.

New Updated Field Test Mode Instructions for iOS

The test mode given above will not work if you have recently updated your Apple iPhone to iOS 9. The test mode is quite similar, but does require extra steps as shown here: For iPhone 5 and later models, go to your Settings > Cellular > Turn OFF the LTE.

• Dial *3001#12345#*

• Press CALL

• Hold the power button for between 5 and 7 seconds - Until you see the Slide to Power Off screen.

• Do not power off the phone!

• Hold the Home button (the round button at the bottom) for between 5 and 7 seconds. You will be returned to the Home screen and the negative decibel reading will show at the top of your screen.

If you do not wish the negative number to remain there permanently, you simply dial the sequence again and press the button, "Back to Phone": Your phone will be returned to the dots/bars.

 

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